Tuesday, September 21, 2010
9/20/10
Today was a great distressor! It was a gorgeous day and my sister, Adama had planned to take me to visit family in Koulaba and later, she surprised me with a guided tour of the zoo! Getting to Koulaba was a trip. We had to take a citroman (city bus) to the city, a motorized wagon through the big market and a lemon up a spiraling road to get there. Koulaba is where the president's palace is located. I didn't get a good look at it, because it has concrete walls built around it, but the surroundings were beautiful. Everywhere, off the mainroad, had flowers, grass and shrubs that are neatly manicured, and statues and monuments are everywhere celebrating the past rulers. As we were walking around, the police started making a commotion and making all the cars stop as the sound of sirens approached, and we soon saw a motorcade with the president! I quickly grabbed my camera to snap a picture and I suddenly felt like a tourist and my sister started laughing at me. After Jade, the tourist, was done taking photos, we descended down a short path right behind all the marble fixtures, to a humble abode on the face of a mountain, where her family lives. As always, I felt very welcome despite my lack of understanding. As we gazed upon the breathtaking valley, we ate rice and beans with sauce and for dessert, we had bananas and oranges. I had so many vitamins today! Everything was Malian-perfect. Afterward, my sister said that we were going to the zoo. I couldn't believe it because that is one of my favorite places to go and as I told her this, Jade, the kid, came out. So, we said our goodbyes and headed for the zoo, where she had somehow organized a private guided tour! I was so excited, but as soon as we entered the zoo, my heart dropped. I saw how unkept the grounds were, how dirty the water was and how mangeled the animals looked. The image of a zoo that I had in mind was not before me at all. It was then, that I remembered that I am in a third-world country where there isn't enough money to keep the people in good health, let alone the animals. As we traversed the grounds, walking on broken stairs, climbing slippery rocks and dragging through mud, I found myself wishing I had brought my hiking shoes! I felt especially sad for the animals there. The wolves growled and the panthers hissed at me. They were pissed, but I knew it wasn't because of me. I've never experienced a pissed off animal at the zoo before and I've visited a lot of zoos. I was appalled at the state of security and sanatation of this public space. At one point, my sister had to go to the bathroom and a grounds keeper handed her a salidaga and she went off into the grass! I couldn't believe that a public place would not have a restroom. I still don't believe that; there has to be one somewhere in that place. I don't think I'll be going back.
Whining Time
So, over the past few days, I've been pretty frustrated with the bossy women in my family and the overall rudeness. Or, so it seems rude to me. People have just been asking me for stuff without saying "please" and "thank you" and that really throws me off sometimes. I've also been frustrated because I can't defend myself as well as I'd like to because my language is not as strong as I'd like it to be. I've also had to change my attitude to protect myself from being taken advantage of. I really am out on my own here and I have to carefully sculpt my relationship with each person. I've been refusing to help my sisters with some of their chores because I don't want them depending on me. I got a heads up about setting precendents from my site buddy. She started going to fields one day during the summer vacation with her family, and now she can't stop going because they expect her to help everyday and she hates it! I don't want that to be me. I gotta keep switching things up. I also think that the lack of personal space is getting to me a bit. At the moment, I only have one room with all my stuff packed in it, but after the rainy season, my family will build me one or two other rooms. As bratty as that sounds, it really is needed for my mental health. Until then, I need to find a spot where I can chill away from everyone.
Lip Smacking
For my Black American audience, ya'll know exactly what I'm talking about. That smacking you do with your lips when someone is getting on your nerves. That smacking you do when you lose at a game of cards. That smacking you do when you're tired and your and your mom or dad ask you to do something as soon as you sit down on the couch or about to down some food. Or just smacking just because! Yeah. You know what I'm talking about. That stuff comes from West Africa, which makes sense when you think about our history. That same lip smacking continues 400 something years later and I don't think it will ever die.
Sharing bodily fluids
The other day, my sister asked me if I could wash off her daughter's bottom after she was done sitting on her potty trainer (which is hilarious that they use, because no one uses a toilet!). I looked at her and said, no. She expected me to take my hand with water and scoop poop off of her child's behind! What she doesn't know is that I don't even touch my own poop. I use toilet paper and will continue to use this amazing product during my time here. That is just one of the things I refuse to give up.
Another thing that is customary here is to eat out of the same dishes. I usually get my own dish because they serve me a fork, but sometimes there is toh to eat and toh is eaten with one's hands and you dip the toh in a sauce. Luckily for me though, they give me my own sauce- dipping bowl. But, sometimes they ask me to come eat food out of the same bowl with them and out of my own cultural upbringing and health consciousness, I am extremely cautious. I'm much more of a clean freak here out of fear of getting sick, again. However, sharing out of the same bowl means a lot here, it creates a bond between the group. It is also customary to ask visitors to come and eat with you. In American culture, you usually only share dishes with family members and close friends. If someone is unfamiliar to you, it is a subconscious thought that that person is dirty. You don't know their background, so you don't know what kind of germs they have, but as you get to know them and learn their habits you may or may not trust to eat with them. That does not exist here and I find that is problematic, for me, especially when people do not regularly wash their hands with soap. I hope to work together with my uncle and homologue to help ameliorate this situation. Soap isn't expensive, so it's not an issue of cost, it's an issue of behavior change.
Another thing that is customary here is to eat out of the same dishes. I usually get my own dish because they serve me a fork, but sometimes there is toh to eat and toh is eaten with one's hands and you dip the toh in a sauce. Luckily for me though, they give me my own sauce- dipping bowl. But, sometimes they ask me to come eat food out of the same bowl with them and out of my own cultural upbringing and health consciousness, I am extremely cautious. I'm much more of a clean freak here out of fear of getting sick, again. However, sharing out of the same bowl means a lot here, it creates a bond between the group. It is also customary to ask visitors to come and eat with you. In American culture, you usually only share dishes with family members and close friends. If someone is unfamiliar to you, it is a subconscious thought that that person is dirty. You don't know their background, so you don't know what kind of germs they have, but as you get to know them and learn their habits you may or may not trust to eat with them. That does not exist here and I find that is problematic, for me, especially when people do not regularly wash their hands with soap. I hope to work together with my uncle and homologue to help ameliorate this situation. Soap isn't expensive, so it's not an issue of cost, it's an issue of behavior change.
Here's a list of my favorite foods
Mooni - balls of grain that are like the texture of peach cobbler dough, mixed with water, sugar, and spices that make it taste like apple sauce
Wosso - fried sweet potatoes (I like to eat this with salt and foronto, a spicy pepper sauce)
Pate - fried bread with spices. You can also put meats, fish and veggies inside. (I also like to eat this with foronto)
Gateau - sweet cakes
Zame - fried rice with onions and green pepper, but you can put whatever you want in it
Ceri - rice mixed with water, sugar, and yogurt or milk
Furufuru - Malian pancakes
I know this list makes me sound like a fat-fat, but I've lost 20 pounds since I've been here. The food here is realtively "healthy" because everything here is made fresh, there are no preservatives. Another thing about food here is that there is a lack of nutrients here. Although the people here eat a lot, they are not eating a lot of fruits and vegetbles. That is one thing that I miss TERRIBLY! I used to eat one banana, at least one apple, berries, carrots, tomatoes and lettuce every day. This week, I've had three bananas, one pound of watermelon, half of a pomegranate, and two tomatoes. The rest of my vitamins come from the sauces that are served with rice and my multivitamins.
Wosso - fried sweet potatoes (I like to eat this with salt and foronto, a spicy pepper sauce)
Pate - fried bread with spices. You can also put meats, fish and veggies inside. (I also like to eat this with foronto)
Gateau - sweet cakes
Zame - fried rice with onions and green pepper, but you can put whatever you want in it
Ceri - rice mixed with water, sugar, and yogurt or milk
Furufuru - Malian pancakes
I know this list makes me sound like a fat-fat, but I've lost 20 pounds since I've been here. The food here is realtively "healthy" because everything here is made fresh, there are no preservatives. Another thing about food here is that there is a lack of nutrients here. Although the people here eat a lot, they are not eating a lot of fruits and vegetbles. That is one thing that I miss TERRIBLY! I used to eat one banana, at least one apple, berries, carrots, tomatoes and lettuce every day. This week, I've had three bananas, one pound of watermelon, half of a pomegranate, and two tomatoes. The rest of my vitamins come from the sauces that are served with rice and my multivitamins.
Random Thoughts/Observations
Time:
The way that people spend their time here is so different from the way Americans use theirs. The people move so slowly here. I've heard Malians make comment on how fast I walk, when I think I'm going really slow. Another thing I've noticed is that meal time here is not exactly a social occassion. People eat, and they eat rather quickly, and when they are done eating, then they will talk. I also eat really slowly in general, but here it seems like I'm eating for twice as long because they are all finished before me.
Sounds:
I wish that I could record some of the Bambara phrases that I find hilarious when I hear them. They're mostly phrases used towards kids telling them to sit down, to put something down, to stop or to go away.
Expression:
The Bambara language is relatively simple compared to other languages. For example, there are no articles. Also, the language is very limited in terms of expressing different degrees of adjectives. For example, there is no exact translation to distinct words expressing the degrees of happiness, like "joyfulness" or "elateness." And I've also noticed that there are not a lot of facial expressions. If I recall correctly, the Russian language does not use any articles or degrees of expression either and the people do not show a lot of expression on their face as well. So, I hypothesize that if a culture does not have the words to express degrees of emotion they will not show many emotions and vice versa. Another interesting thing to note is that I've met a lot of Malians who have studied Russian, so maybe there is some truth to what I'm thinking.
Another thing to note, is that there are only nine colors in the Bambara language. It's strange because I've noticed that Malian's love to wear a lot of colors and patterns. Where are the words to express all the varying colors I see?
The way that people spend their time here is so different from the way Americans use theirs. The people move so slowly here. I've heard Malians make comment on how fast I walk, when I think I'm going really slow. Another thing I've noticed is that meal time here is not exactly a social occassion. People eat, and they eat rather quickly, and when they are done eating, then they will talk. I also eat really slowly in general, but here it seems like I'm eating for twice as long because they are all finished before me.
Sounds:
I wish that I could record some of the Bambara phrases that I find hilarious when I hear them. They're mostly phrases used towards kids telling them to sit down, to put something down, to stop or to go away.
Expression:
The Bambara language is relatively simple compared to other languages. For example, there are no articles. Also, the language is very limited in terms of expressing different degrees of adjectives. For example, there is no exact translation to distinct words expressing the degrees of happiness, like "joyfulness" or "elateness." And I've also noticed that there are not a lot of facial expressions. If I recall correctly, the Russian language does not use any articles or degrees of expression either and the people do not show a lot of expression on their face as well. So, I hypothesize that if a culture does not have the words to express degrees of emotion they will not show many emotions and vice versa. Another interesting thing to note is that I've met a lot of Malians who have studied Russian, so maybe there is some truth to what I'm thinking.
Another thing to note, is that there are only nine colors in the Bambara language. It's strange because I've noticed that Malian's love to wear a lot of colors and patterns. Where are the words to express all the varying colors I see?
Friday, September 17, 2010
Work? What is that?
09/16/10
Today, I met with Bakary, my homologue and we went to greet people at the Mayor’s office and then, we went to fix my bike at a shop. Whenever you go anywhere in Mali, you can’t just do your business and leave, you must baaroke (chat). So, to go put air in my tires took at total of 1.5hr. No one in America has time to just sit around at a bike shop and drink tea. Plus, today is a work day, well actually, everyday is a work day. There’s no such thing as a weekend break and that’s a good thing because the work-life here is so relaxed. It seems like you can come and go and work as much or as little as you want and the concept of “time is money” does not exist here at all. I seriously wonder what I’m going to do on a day-to-day basis. I have one idea of what I’d like to do and it’s awesome! So awesome, that I can’t share it in case someone steals it before I even start. I also talked with Bakary about his work with the Mayor’s office and I found out that he is the equivalent of a Public Sanitation Officer in the States. I couldn’t believe what I was hearing, because one of the things that I want to focus on is health education and I expressed my interest to help him with his work, and he gladly accepted! I don’t know how I got so lucky; let’s just hope God keeps giving me His grace. I really hope that my ideas can come to fruition and I think it will be possible to obtain in my two years here, at least on a small scale. On another note, this afternoon I spent some time talking with my host grandpa. I found out that he’s 85 years old, he has 11 children, and he worked for the military and that he fully supports the current Malian president. He was nice to talk to, he reminds me of my uncle John, and talking with him is a good way to learn Malian blessings.
Today, I met with Bakary, my homologue and we went to greet people at the Mayor’s office and then, we went to fix my bike at a shop. Whenever you go anywhere in Mali, you can’t just do your business and leave, you must baaroke (chat). So, to go put air in my tires took at total of 1.5hr. No one in America has time to just sit around at a bike shop and drink tea. Plus, today is a work day, well actually, everyday is a work day. There’s no such thing as a weekend break and that’s a good thing because the work-life here is so relaxed. It seems like you can come and go and work as much or as little as you want and the concept of “time is money” does not exist here at all. I seriously wonder what I’m going to do on a day-to-day basis. I have one idea of what I’d like to do and it’s awesome! So awesome, that I can’t share it in case someone steals it before I even start. I also talked with Bakary about his work with the Mayor’s office and I found out that he is the equivalent of a Public Sanitation Officer in the States. I couldn’t believe what I was hearing, because one of the things that I want to focus on is health education and I expressed my interest to help him with his work, and he gladly accepted! I don’t know how I got so lucky; let’s just hope God keeps giving me His grace. I really hope that my ideas can come to fruition and I think it will be possible to obtain in my two years here, at least on a small scale. On another note, this afternoon I spent some time talking with my host grandpa. I found out that he’s 85 years old, he has 11 children, and he worked for the military and that he fully supports the current Malian president. He was nice to talk to, he reminds me of my uncle John, and talking with him is a good way to learn Malian blessings.
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